This deluxe amplifier kit can be used with any personal stereo equipment, including MP3 players. The kit has a volume control & power LED. It can be powered by a batteries connected to the PP3 clip or a DC power module can be plugged in when the batteries automatically disconnect and the power supply is used. The kit can be powered off a 2V to 15V supply, though the volume is better with a higher supply. It uses a TDA2822M audio amplifier IC which can output 1W per channel.
Available with an iPod connecting lead (Please note this is not the Lightning connector used on the some Apple devices such as the iPhone 5. Adapters are available) or a 3.5mm jack lead.This kit includes:
- 1 x TDA2822M audio amplifier IC
- 1 x 8 pin IC holder
- 1 x 1Kohm resistor
- 2 x 10Kohm resistors
- 1 x 10Kohm dual potentiometer
- 2 x 4.7ohm resistors
- 1 x Red 5mm LED
- 2 x 100nF capacitors, ceramic disc
- 2 x 470uF capacitors, electrolytic
- 2 x 100uF capacitors, electrolytic
- 1 x 10uF capacitor, electrolytic
- 1 x 3.5mm stereo jack cable
- 1 x PP3 clip lead
- 1 x right angle power switch
- 1 x DC power socket
- 2 x speakers (8ohm, 66mm) and connecting wire
- 1 x deluxe stereo amplifier PCB
PCB dimensions: 62mm x 50mm.
This kit requires soldering.
It has a PP3 battery clip and can run off any voltage from 2 to 15 volts.
It works nicely off a 9V battery (not supplied) or if you want to run it of the mains why not try our 12V wall power unit.
Output power at 9V is 1W per speaker. See the datasheet for more details.
Note: Schools will receive a more detailed set of teaching notes on a CDROM.
This product is also available in retail packaging making them an ideal gift. Click here to view the retail version
Award winning Rocket Speaker DT Project by a student at George Hirst.
MP3 Amplifier Docking Stations by students at Cottenham Village College.
Vintage Vinyl Amplifier design, based on our Deluxe Stereo Amplifier Kit.
iPod Stereo Amplifier Dock by year 10 students at Hardenhuish School.
Deluxe Stereo Amplifier Project Kit demo video.
A video of us comparing our Amplifier Kits taken from our Ask Kitronik Live event 2012.
Is it possible to mount the controls off the board? If so what is the best way to do so and would the battery cut off work with a body mount dc socket?
Posted byon Tuesday, 22 April 2014Any of the parts on the board can be mounted off board on flying leads. You just need to make sure that the wires connect the pad on the board to the equivalent leg on the part. On the DC jack as long as all the leads are connected back to the board then it will continue to switch between battery and the power supply.
Hi, I am looking to have 4 or 6 speakers (mid-range and tweeters). 1. How is this done with your kit or would I need to do buy a different kit? 2. Are there limited on the specification of alternative speakers? thx Richard
Posted byon Friday, 11 April 2014You can't just connect multiple speakers together without some electronics. The simplest option is to use a good quality speaker that has a wide frequency range. In the related items left side bar you will find a 20W full range speaker, whilst this has more power than you will need it will sound far better than the standard speakers supplied with this kit, but this obviously comes at a cost.
Hi. If I wated to use the better quality speakers you provide, would I need to alter the resistance to them? If so, what change would I need to make? Many thanks
Posted byon Friday, 11 April 2014You can connect the higher power speaker in place of the standard speaker. You won't be able to drive the high power speaker to it's full volume, but it will sound far better than the standard speaker supplied with the kit. You don't need to make any changes to the board to use it.
what would be the best way to house the drivers? im talking air space behind them. dampening material. that sort of thing?
Posted byon Friday, 11 April 2014With this kit it is obviously important to mount the speaker in to a case so that as the cone moves in and out the air is forced forwards. If you don't put it in a box then the air just moves around the edge of the speaker and the sound is very poor. In terms of the design of the enclosure you’re not really going to notice much difference between just mounting the speaker against the case and trying to calculate spaces, baffles, damping etc. If you make the case too thin so that the back of the case touches the back of the speaker then there won’t be any air behind the speaker. As long as the case is 50mm deep then it should sound fine, making it larger will only help, but I suspect you would struggle to hear the difference. If you had a set of speakers to cover the frequency range and they were higher powered then the design of the speaker housing would become more important. If you search on speaker design there are loads of websites that go in to all the theory.
Just wondering is it possible to integrate a switch where the jack lead would go so it is possible to swap from 3.5mm jack to ipod cable with just the flick of a switch
Posted byon Monday, 11 March 2013Yes it is possible to integrate a switch to do that. I would recommend using a slide switch. You would attach the ground lead of both the 3.5mm jack and ipod lead to the common of the switch then one positive lead to each of the remaining terminals. Then connect the other side of the common connection on the switch to the negative terminal on the PCB and both of the other terminals on the switch to the positive terminal on the PCB. Hope this makes sense!
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